Seeds or Starts: When Should You Use Each and How Do You Grow Them Right

Published October 8, 2025 | Gardening Guide

Every gardener faces this dilemma at the beginning of each growing season: should you plant from seeds or buy transplants (starts)? The answer isn't one-size-fits-all. Your choice depends on what you're growing, when you're planting, your budget, and how much time you can dedicate to your garden. Let's break down everything you need to know to make the right decision for your garden.

Understanding the Basics: Seeds vs. Starts

Seeds are exactly what they sound like—the dormant beginnings of plants that you'll nurture from day one. They're typically sold in packets and require germination before they start growing.

Starts (also called transplants or seedlings) are young plants that have already been germinated and grown to a certain size, usually in small pots or cell trays. You're essentially getting a head start on the growing season.

When to Choose Seeds

Best Situations for Starting from Seed

Plants That Don't Transplant Well
Some vegetables absolutely hate being moved. Root vegetables like carrots, radishes, beets, and parsnips should always be direct-sown where they'll grow. Their tap roots are sensitive to disturbance, and transplanting often results in stunted or deformed roots.

Fast-Growing Crops
Lettuce, arugula, spinach, beans, peas, and other quick growers don't need a head start. They germinate quickly and grow fast enough that starting them indoors or buying transplants doesn't save you meaningful time.

When You Have Time and Space
If you're starting your garden planning early (6-12 weeks before your last frost), seeds are perfect. You'll need indoor space with good lighting, but you'll have complete control over your plants' development from day one.

Budget-Conscious Gardening
Seeds are significantly cheaper than starts. A packet of tomato seeds might cost $3 and contain 25-50 seeds, while a single tomato transplant might cost $4-6. If you're planting a large garden, the savings add up quickly.

When You Want Variety
Seed catalogs offer hundreds of varieties that you'll never find as transplants at your local nursery. Want to grow a purple Cherokee tomato or a Romanesco cauliflower? Seeds are often your only option.

Professional seed starting setup with organic seedling mix and plant nutrition

How to Grow from Seeds Successfully

Indoor Seed Starting

Creating the right environment is essential for successful germination. Start with a quality seed starting mix that's light, sterile, and well-draining. Heavy garden soil is too dense for delicate seedlings and can harbor diseases.

Fill your seed trays or containers with moistened seedling mix. Plant seeds at the depth recommended on the packet—generally, seeds should be planted about 2-3 times as deep as they are wide. Some tiny seeds (like lettuce) need light to germinate and should just be pressed onto the soil surface.

Keep your seed trays consistently moist but not waterlogged. Using a spray bottle helps prevent displacing tiny seeds. Cover trays with plastic domes or wrap to maintain humidity until germination occurs.

Temperature matters tremendously. Most vegetable seeds germinate best between 65-75°F. Some crops like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants prefer it even warmer (75-85°F), while cool-season crops like lettuce and broccoli germinate well at cooler temperatures (55-65°F).

Once seedlings emerge, light becomes critical. Place them under grow lights or in a very bright, south-facing window. Seedlings need 14-16 hours of light daily. Keep lights 2-3 inches above seedlings and raise them as plants grow. Insufficient light creates weak, leggy seedlings that struggle when transplanted.

Hardening Off

Before transplanting seedlings outdoors, they need to be gradually acclimated to outdoor conditions—a process called hardening off. Start 7-10 days before your planned transplant date.

Begin by placing seedlings outside in a protected, shaded spot for 1-2 hours. Each day, gradually increase outdoor time and sun exposure. By day 7-10, seedlings should be able to handle full sun and outdoor conditions all day. This process prevents transplant shock and creates more resilient plants.

Direct Sowing

Many seeds can be sown directly where they'll grow. This works especially well for root vegetables, beans, peas, squash, cucumbers, and greens.

Prepare your garden bed by loosening soil to 6-8 inches deep and incorporating quality organic matter. Create furrows or holes at the depth specified on your seed packet. Space seeds according to package directions, keeping in mind you'll thin them later.

Cover seeds with soil and water gently but thoroughly. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs—this usually means watering daily in dry weather. Once seedlings emerge, thin them to proper spacing so remaining plants have room to develop.

When to Choose Starts

Best Situations for Buying Transplants

Short Growing Seasons
If you live in a region with a short summer or late last frost date, transplants give you precious extra weeks. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants can take 6-12 weeks to reach transplant size—time you might not have if you're starting from seed outdoors.

Long-Season Crops
Plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage) benefit from the head start that transplants provide. These crops take months to mature, so starting with established plants means you'll harvest sooner.

When You're Short on Time or Space
Not everyone has the space, equipment, or time to start seeds indoors. Buying transplants means someone else did that work for you. You can focus your energy on preparing garden beds and caring for established plants.

Mid-Season Replacements
If spring lettuce bolts in the heat or a late frost kills your early plantings, transplants let you quickly fill gaps in your garden without waiting for germination and early growth phases.

First-Time Gardeners
Transplants are more forgiving for beginners. You can see what you're getting, and established plants are hardier and more resilient than fragile seedlings.

How to Transplant Successfully

Choosing Healthy Starts

Look for transplants with these characteristics:

• Deep green, healthy leaves without yellowing or spots
• Compact, stocky growth (not tall and leggy)
• Moist but not waterlogged soil
• No visible pests or disease symptoms
• Plants that haven't yet flowered (unless you're planting perennials)

Avoid transplants that are root-bound (roots circling densely at the bottom of the pot) or that have yellow lower leaves, which indicates nutrient deficiency or stress.

Timing Your Transplant

Transplant on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon/evening to minimize transplant shock. Avoid transplanting during the heat of the day or in direct, intense sunlight.

Check your local frost dates and plant according to each crop's cold tolerance. Cool-season crops like broccoli and lettuce can go out earlier than warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers, which need consistently warm soil and air temperatures.

The Transplanting Process

Water plants thoroughly an hour or two before transplanting. This ensures they're well-hydrated and reduces stress.

Dig holes slightly larger than the root ball. For most plants, the hole should be deep enough that the transplant sits at the same level it was in its pot. Tomatoes are an exception—they can be planted deeper, even burying part of the stem, which will develop additional roots.

Gently remove the plant from its container. If roots are circling the bottom, gently tease them apart with your fingers to encourage outward growth. Place the plant in the hole and backfill with soil, gently firming it around the roots.

Water immediately after transplanting and keep soil consistently moist (not soggy) for the first week or two while roots establish.

A Plant-by-Plant Guide

Start from Seeds

Root Vegetables: Carrots, radishes, beets, turnips, parsnips
Why: Tap roots don't transplant well
When: Direct sow 2-4 weeks before last frost for spring crop

Legumes: Beans, peas
Why: Quick germination and fast growth
When: After last frost for beans; 4-6 weeks before last frost for peas

Greens: Lettuce, spinach, arugula, mesclun
Why: Fast growing and succession planting works well
When: As soon as soil can be worked; continue every 2 weeks

Squash Family: Cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins
Why: Grow quickly and dislike root disturbance
When: 1-2 weeks after last frost when soil is warm

Corn
Why: Deep tap root transplants poorly
When: After last frost when soil reaches 60°F

Buy as Starts (or Start Seeds 6-10 Weeks Early Indoors)

Solanaceae Family: Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants
Why: Long growing season; need warm soil and air
When: Plant out 1-2 weeks after last frost for tomatoes; 2-3 weeks after for peppers and eggplants

Brassicas: Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts
Why: Long season to maturity; benefit from head start
When: Spring planting 2-4 weeks before last frost; fall planting mid-summer

Herbs: Basil, parsley, cilantro
Why: Basil needs warmth; others are slow from seed
When: After last frost for basil; anytime for others

Either Works Well

Herbs: Many herbs including oregano, thyme, rosemary
Seeds: More economical for large plantings
Starts: Get usable herbs sooner

Kale and Chard
Seeds: Quick germination and succession planting
Starts: Earlier harvests

Onions
Seeds: Most economical; widest variety
Sets or starts: Much easier; faster to harvest

Quality seedling mix ensures strong germination and healthy root development

Creating Your Seed-Starting Setup

If you decide to start seeds indoors, you'll need some basic equipment:

Containers: Seed trays, cell packs, or any clean container with drainage holes. Upcycled yogurt cups or egg cartons work great.

Growing Medium: Use a sterile seed-starting mix, not garden soil. Seedling Mix is specifically formulated to provide the light, fluffy texture seeds need while retaining adequate moisture.

Light Source: A south-facing window can work for some seeds, but supplemental lighting ensures success. LED grow lights are energy-efficient and provide the full spectrum seedlings need.

Heat Mat (Optional): Heating mats maintain consistent soil temperature, speeding germination of warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers.

Labels: Always label what you plant and when. Trust me—you'll forget otherwise.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Starting Seeds Too Early
One of the most common mistakes is starting seeds too early. Large transplants outgrow their containers and become root-bound, stressed, or leggy before outdoor conditions are right for planting. Check your last frost date and count backward according to each plant's timeline.

Insufficient Light
Weak, leggy seedlings that flop over are crying out for more light. If you're using a windowsill, rotate plants daily and consider supplemental lighting.

Overwatering
More seedlings die from overwatering than underwatering. Soil should be moist but not soggy. Ensure containers have drainage holes and empty saucers of excess water.

Skipping Hardening Off
Transplanting seedlings directly from indoors to full sun outdoors is a shock they often can't handle. Always harden off seedlings gradually over 7-10 days.

Planting Transplants Too Deep (Except Tomatoes)
Most plants should be planted at the same depth they were in their pots. Burying stems can lead to rot, especially with peppers and other plants that don't root along the stem.

The Best of Both Worlds

Many successful gardeners use a combination approach:

• Buy transplants for tomatoes, peppers, and other long-season crops
• Direct sow quick growers like lettuce, radishes, and beans
• Start interesting varieties from seed that aren't available as transplants
• Purchase herbs and perennials as starts for immediate use

This strategy balances cost, time, variety, and gardening enjoyment.

Final Thoughts

Whether you choose seeds or starts depends on your specific situation—there's no universally "right" answer. Seeds offer variety, economy, and the joy of nurturing plants from the very beginning. Starts provide convenience, a head start on the growing season, and greater success rates for beginners.

The most important factor isn't which you choose, but that you provide proper care from the moment seeds germinate or transplants go in the ground. Quality soil, consistent moisture, appropriate nutrients, and attention to each plant's needs will reward you with a thriving, productive garden.

Related Articles

Learn more about successful organic gardening:

• Container Gardening Guide
• Companion Planting for Better Harvests
• Soil Testing: Understanding Your Garden's Foundation
• Organic Vegetable Gardening Tips
• Natural Pest Control Methods

Happy gardening! 🌱